In between squalor and crumbling infrastructure, decades of neglect, apathy, and corrupt administrators, there are remnants of what Karachi once was—phantoms of the sparkling clean, well-organized, cultural, and liberal metropolis. A crossroads for travelers headed to Bombay, a place of style and flair. A city of cabarets, musicals, and cinema. Of intellectuals, artists, traders, and students. A majority Parsi and Hindu city that gave it its roots and character and built it with passion, style, and finesse.

Early this morning I went on a fascinating heritage walk of the city organised by Shaheen Nauman of the Pakistan Chowk Heritage Centre. If you can look past the environs, you will see some amazing structures.